Parawai Tramping Club

Mt Arthur Tablelands Circuit

23-27 November 2023

Leader: Dave Cox and Kate Livingston

Day 1 - (by Pam). Eight Parawais rose around dawn to prepare to drive to Wellington Airport for an early departure.

After several days of cancelled flights due to fog, we were fortunate to wing our way on time, in clear skies, to sunny Nelson. We were met by our friendly Trek Express driver, who drove us in his 4WD people mover over the long and winding road to the Flora car park. Then we set off with heavy packs to begin the steady three-and-a-half hour climb through bush to Mt Arthur Hut. When we arrived, there were a number of young trampers already there who mysteriously vanished soon after. We thought they may not have wanted to share the hut with so many older trampers, but learnt later they were a group of young Americans who were there to hone their outdoor skills, and that meant camping! So it was we had the eight-bunk hut to ourselves.

Trip Report Photo 1
Stunning scenery, typical for the trip

Day 2 - Mt Arthur Hut to Salisbury Hut (by Dave). After an appropriately timed start, we were pleased to see the wind drop and it becoming a lovely day. There was a very cold southerly blowing however, which meant we were well clad, mostly in parkas and overtrousers. We left Mt Arthur hut and headed over the tops towards Mt Arthur. Taking a right turn we took a break in the beautiful Horseshoe Basin. It was then onwards along the ridge towards Gordon's Pyramid, with one interesting bit where the track descended steeply requiring some pack lowering. We reached Gordons Pyramid in a brief flutter of light snow. Then it was all downhill to Salisbury Lodge - a lovely big hut with plenty of room and great views over the tussock lands.

Day 3 - Salisbury Lodge to Balloon Hut (by Kate). The day started, and remained, clear with occasional cool wind gusts.

Trip Report Photo 2
Horseshoe Basin break

This gave us great views across the Tablelands and to Mt Arthur and Gordon’s Pyramid.

We left Salisbury Lodge around 8.30am taking a well-signed track across the tussock plateau to Balloon Hut. En route, we explored Bishop's Cave, in a sort of depression with beech trees and rock formations. Evidently the Rev Bishop gave sermons there to miners back in the day. We reached Balloon Hut after about 1 1/2 hours easy walking. Balloon Hut, at 1260 m, is located at the tree line and has 14 bunks. Overnight, besides our group there was a young couple, plus the minder/guide for the American youth group completing an outdoors course (who camped elsewhere). Plus the wekas.

Trip Report Photo 3
After negotiating the steep bit

In the afternoon we headed up to Lake Peel, a steady 3.3 km climb from the hut. Pam and Maryann made their own way later to the top of the ridge from which the lake and the waterfall from its outlet can be seen, and met up with John, already there. The views back toward Arthur Range were magnificent. The rest of us went further, to the lake edge. The lake itself is in a basin - a 3-sided cirque. The track on the ridge on the opposite side to ours went over to the Cobb Valley. Jamie briefly contemplated heading up to the summit of Mt Peel following a ground trail further back off the track to Lake Peel.

After lunch and a sit in the sun at the lake’s edge (and a successful hunt for a geo-cache) we headed back to the hut - where there was still plenty of time for more basking in the sun on the hut’s veranda. By late afternoon Anne Bate, a club member residing in Nelson, had arrived at the hut and joined our group over the weekend.

Trip Report Photo 4
On Gordon's Pyramid

Day 4 - Balloon Hut to Salisbury Lodge and potholes (by John). We had a leisurely start, then returned to Salisbury Lodge by 11 am. We decided to do a circuit of the Potholes Track, taking lunch with us. It was an interesting and enjoyable few hours discovering the limestone formations in this area. At one point we stopped for lunch, then John, Jamie and Anne investigated a nearby cave. Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately!) a boulder blocked the steep drop into it, prohibiting entry. We continued anti-clockwise around the loop, all the way back to the hut.

Day 5 - Salisbury Lodge to Flora car park (by Elisabeth). We were ready to leave the lodge by 7.30am. By then the heavy fog had started to clear and the sun had started to break through the clouds. An at times deeply rutted track lead us through lovely tableland scenery past the old Salisbury Hut site. A quick detour took us to the impressive Dry Rock Shelter.

Trip Report Photo 5
The whole group, about to leave Salisbury Lodge

Our next stop was Growler Rock Shelter, where we had a snack and a drink. Walking through the beautiful beech forest, it didn’t take us very long to get to Gridiron Shelter and then Upper Gridiron Hut. I would love to sleep in the hut one day, as it’s unique the way it’s wedged into the rockface! The track then became a 4WD track and seemed to be going on and on. It was good to finally reach Flora Hut where we had a long lunch break. Another 30 minutes of walking and we reached Flora Saddle car park where our 5 day Kahurangi adventure sadly came to an end.

Those on the trip were:

Anne Bate, Dave Cox, Elisabeth Hynes, John Glover, Kate Livingston, Pam Glover, James McGregor, Beth McGregor, Maryann Bugg

Trip Report Photo 6
Native carnivorous pygmy sundews (Drosera pygmaea) lining the track near Salisbury Lodge
Trip Report Photo 7
Dave, Kate, Maryann and Pam
Trip Report Photo 8
Approaching Lake Peel
Trip Report Photo 9
Gordon's Pyramid from Salisbury Lodge
Trip Report Photo 10
Our route (anticlockwise)