21-25 March 2022
Leader: Peter Davis
We arrived at Kinloch Lodge in Glenorchy on the 13th March 2022, with a plan to start the Rees-Dart Track on the 17th. However, the forecast was not in our favour for the 19th which would the day to do the Cascade Saddle.
So change of plan: we decided to postpone the trip to 21st – 25th March. We took 4 vehicles between 8 of us, parked two vehicles at each end of the track.
21st March – Muddy Creek to Shelter Rock Hut. The trip started at Muddy Creek road end. The weather was beautifully sunny, and we followed the 4-wheel drive track over the wide grassy land of the Rees Valley. We passed cattle grazing contentedly as we followed the Rees River bed for the next few hours. In the afternoon, the track meandered through the bush, passing through the occasional grassy flat, and we arrived at Shelter Rock Hut reasonably early. The hut was quiet for the night - there were only two other trampers and we had two bunk rooms to ourselves.
22nd March – Shelter Rock Hut to Dart Hut via the Rees Saddle. Another stunning day, so off we went up the valley. A short, steep zig-zagging climb up to a scree slope under the high rockface, then to the Rees Saddle, where we loitered around at the top, admiring the stunning views for half to an hour before we found a nice spot for lunch. After a final steep descent down a narrow ridge, one last crossing of the creek on a wood and wire swing bridge, and we were in the Dart Valley, where the large 32 bunk Dart Hut awaited us. Again there were only two other small groups, so we were very lucky to have the bunk rooms to ourselves again. That night, as the sun set, it glowed pink above the snow-capped peaks. Red sky at night, shepherd’s delight!
23rd March – Cascade Saddle – in the heart of the alps. We were up at 6 am for an early start to Cascade Saddle. It is a 4 - 5 hour tramp from Dart Hut, so there and back will take us 9-10 hours including breaks. We were delighted as shepherds departing, with a pink/orange sunrise followed by clear blue skies. We crossed the swing bridge, up through a terrace of tussock, shrubs and cutty grass, passing some grey-green swimming pool-like tarns along the valley. The track followed the river up, and eventually reaching a bend in the valley, we were facing the Dart Glacier.
Overhead, the sound of keas echoed across, flew over our heads and landed a few meters in front of us. We spent the next 15 minutes or so trying to convince the creatures to pose for the cameras – I started wondering who was amusing themselves the most, the keas or us. Heading on, we soon reached the top of the Cascade Saddle where we lingered as long as we could, taking it all in. In front, lay the mass of Mt Rob Roy in the distance; back behind us lay the beauty of the Dart Glacier with snow capped peaks - an absolutely glorious alpine wonderland! Nine hours and about 20 km later, we were back in Dart Hut, some card games and a hearty warm meal to finish the day with one of the best alpine views in the world.
24th March – Dart Hut to Daley’s Flat Hut. We headed out in light rain and down the Dart Valley and immediately entered the well-formed track in the beech forest. Before we knew it, the sun was out. The track followed the river down across the short open grassland of Quinn’s Flat, then we spotted a rock bivvy, and a perfect spot for lunch. Just before reaching Daley’s Flat Hut, there was a newly-installed three-wire bridge where we entertained ourselves for a while before heading to the Hut. Other than the sandflies, the hut was nice and cosy.
25th March – Daley’s Flat to Chinaman’s Bluff. On our final day of the Rees-Dart, we set off from Daley's Flat Hut and headed through some more beech forest and grassy flats. We came across a large quick-sand area, despite a warning sign saying “Dangerous sinking sand and mud along river edge, please keep to formed track”. We all danced around on the quick sand and it was fun. Finally we rounded the southern edge of Chinaman’s Bluff and reached the track end.
Five days and over 80km after setting out, the tramp was over. It is an unforgettable trip, the alpine scenery was magnificent, and it will remain one of the best memories of our tramping trips to the South Island.
Those on the trip were:
David Williams, Kate Livingston, Kylie Gilbert, Paul Michl, Peter Davis, Rob Dey, Yingjun Shelton, Anne Bate